Leather

The properties of leather vary considerably depending upon the type and quality of both the skins and the tanning process. Every piece of leather has individual markings which relate to its origins and add character to each skin. Like a fine wine, a good quality leather garment should improve with age. The natural elasticity of each hide means it is flexible and will stretch and return to its original shape. Leather also has a natural tendency to repel liquids and resist staining. It’s also fire resistant, and emits no toxic fumes, even when exposed to intense heat. Relative to virtually all man-made textiles, leather is very strong and has a high resistance level to tears and punctures. The comfort provided by most leather goods is due in part to leather’s ability to combine breathing and insulating properties. You may have heard… “Leather is hot in summer and cold in winter.” In reality, leather adjusts constantly to its environment. Because it is a natural product, leather “breathes” freely, maintaining a comfort level in all seasons.

Types of Garment Leather:

Cowhide

This is the most common leather used in the making of garments, furniture and leather goods. Cowhide as a category covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality, but generally, it is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and dirt. Cowhide leather will maintain its integrity, taking on the shape of the wearer, making it more comfortable with everyday use. This affordable, functional leather offers fashion, value and endless colors and styles. See “Naked”, “Premium”, “Milled”, and “Split”.

Buffalo

This leather comes from the water buffalo common to areas of Asia and the Middle East. The leather is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and scratches. It has a finer texture than cowhide, thus the finished product is smoother and softer. It is also thicker than cowhide, making it very durable. The durability is excellent and the tear resistance superb. See “Naked”, “Premium”, “Milled”, and “Split”.

Deerskin

Leather from deer, which has an attractive combination of softness, durability and light weight. It also has the unique quality of keeping its soft texture even after becoming wet and drying.

Goatskin

Compared to cowhide, it has a coarser grain but can be finished to a texture that nearly matches that of cowhide. Goat leather is durable and naturally water resistant. It is lightweight and can be shaved quite thin to allow for a closer fit.

Lambskin

This is very soft luxurious leather. Its natural lightweight layers give it a distinctive, velvety touch, which suits form-fitting jackets, pants, skirts as well as coats. Don’t let its delicate texture discourage you. With a little extra care, lambskin is very wearable and the ultimate luxury.

Sheepskin

This refers to the hide of a sheep used with the wool still attached. Usually, the wool side faces into the garment or accessory, but it can also be made reversible. The wool can be ironed, which means straightened to yield a smooth, fur-like appearance, or it can be left naturally curly. Whichever way the wool is styled, this is the warmest leather available.

Shearling

This is quite similar in appearance to sheepskin. The term shearling refers to hides from lambs which are generally much lighter in weight than sheepskin hides and much softer. Although they may be lighter, shearling coats are just as warm as the heavier sheepskin. They are an elegant alternative to a fur coat.

Glossary of Leather Terms Used on this Site:

Aniline

Leather that is tumbled in vats so the dye is completely absorbed by the skin. There is no other coloring agent or process, thus the finished leather tends to look and feel more “natural” – the unique markings and character of each skin are apparent. By way of analogy, this treatment is akin to the “staining” of wood. Usually, the best quality hides are reserved for this process, as aniline leathers are valued highest by consumers.

Antiqued

The light application of one color over another (usually a darker color over a lighter one), to create highlights.

Crazy Horse

Authentic American leather that is treated with oil and wax in a unique tanning process. During this process, the oil and wax surface to create a rich, beautiful patina that’s fade-resistant and long-lasting.

Drum-dyed

A dyeing process in which leather is immersed in dye and tumbled in a rotating drum, allowing maximum dye penetration.

Embossing

A process in which design is added to leather by pressure to alter or correct the surface, resulting in uniform imitation grain.

Finishing

Any post-tanning treatment, such as: dyeing, rolling, pressing, spraying, lacquering, antiquing, waxing, buffing, embossing, glazing, waterproofing, or flame-proofing.

Grain

The distinctive pore and wrinkle pattern of a hide; may be either natural or embossed.

Hand

A term used to describe the softness or feel of leather.

Hides

Skin of large animals, usually cattle.

Milled

A hide is tumbled or “milled” in a large drum to produce a supple and pliable leather.

Naked Leather

A term used for the top grade of cowhide leather–only 5% of skins are graded as “Naked”. The leather is soft and supple, with minimum flaws.

Napa Leather

Napa leather is the general term for particularly soft, chrome tanned smooth leather. The process was developed in a tannery in Napa Valley, CA, hence the name. It is one of the most expensive kinds of leather as the way it is treated and dyed has to be done with the utmost care. It is very supple and lightweight and wears well compared to other leathers.

Nappa Leather

Nappa is an acronym for Nocturnal Animal Processed Pelt Application. This material is used extensively in the automotive industry for the interiors of most automobiles. It is different from Napa leather which is a fine leather indeed. The pelts are processed in such a way as to remove any fur and then they are dissolved in a solution. The solution chemically alters the skin which allows it to be mixed with other skins. The result is a paste-like material which is dyed to the color specified and then rolled out into large sheets, trimmed and cured. It does not have the strength of real leather, therefore is used in applications that will not undergo stress.

Nubuck

Hide leather, buffed on the grain side to give a velvet surface.

Premium Selection

The “regular” grade of cowhide leather. Natural irregularities in the skins do not affect the durability of the garment.

Semi-Aniline

Leathers which are a combination of both pigmented and aniline dyed; a very light pigment is added to even out the color and increase the durability. Most garments are made with semi-aniline leathers.

Split Leather

A term used for the most economical grade of cowhide leather–durable but not as soft as premium or naked grades.

Splits

Underlying layers of leather usually used for suedes.

Suede

Suede is the underneath portion of a hide after the splitting process. Compared to the durable top grain, this layer of the hide is much thinner and therefore most commonly used for garments and small leather goods – and not for furniture.

Tanning

Treating raw hides to become nonperishable.

Primitive people who lived during the Ice Age some 500,000 years ago were likely the first to use the skins of animals to protect their bodies from the elements. Just as leather today is a byproduct, our ancient ancestors hunted animals primarily for food, but once they had eaten the meat, they would clean the skin by scraping off the flesh and then sling it over their shoulders as a crude form of coat. They also made footwear to protect their bare feet from rocks and thorns by taking smaller pieces of animal skin made to fit loosely over the foot and tied at the ankle with thin strips of skin or even vines. The main problem that primitive man encountered was that after a relatively short time the skins decayed and rotted away. With his limited knowledge and experience, primitive man had no idea how to preserve these hides.

As centuries passed it was noticed that several things could slow down the decay of leather. If the skins were stretched out and allowed to dry in the sun, it made them stiff and hard but they lasted much longer. Various oily substances were then rubbed into the skins to soften them. As time passed, it was eventually discovered that the bark of certain trees contained “tannin” or tannic acid could be used to convert raw skins into what we recognize today as leather. It is quite hard to substantiate chronologically at exactly what time this tanning method materialized, but the famous “Iceman” dating from at least 5,000 BC discovered in the Italian Alps several years ago, was clothed in very durable leather.

Somewhat later, techniques used by Native Americans are very similar to those used in this early period. These Indians took the ashes from their campfires, put water on them and soaked the skins in this solution. In a few weeks the hair and bits of flesh came off, leaving only the raw hide. This tanning method, which used a solution of hemlock and oak bark, took about three months to complete. Then the leather was worked by hand to make the hide soft and pliable.

The Making of Leather Products

The tanning of leather was used by mankind in numerous geographical areas throughout the early periods of human civilization. As certain leather characteristics began to emerge, men realized leather could be used for many purposes besides footwear and clothing. The uses and importance of leather increased greatly. For example, it was discovered that water would keep fresh and cool in a leather bag. It was also found suitable for such other items as tents, beds, rugs, carpet, armor and harnesses.

Ancient Egypt, one of the most developed civilizations in this early period, valued leather as an important item of trade. The Egyptians made leather sandals, belts, bags, shields, harness, cushions and chair seats from tanned skins. Many of these items are in fact still made from leather today.

Similarly, the Greeks and Romans used leather to make many different styles of sandals, boots and shoes. When the Roman legions marched in conquest across Europe, they were well attired in leather armor and leather capes. In fact, right up until the early 18th century, the shield carried by the ordinary soldier was more likely to be made of leather than metal.

The ancient Greeks refer to eight basic guilds of artisans, which included both shoemakers and tanners. Although tanning was originally a cottage trade, the Greeks had full-time professional tanners who were at first employed in leather processing establishments and became independent some time later. The bark of conifer and alder was used as a tannin source and so were the peel of the pomegranate, sumac leaves, walnut, cups of acorns as well as an Egyptian heritage – mimosa bark. The Greeks were also familiar with alum tanning and it appears they knew something about tanning with fish oil.

The types of leathers used were as diversified as the end users. Homer refers to the use of cowhide, goat and weasel leather by the Greeks. The edict issued by the Roman emperor Diocletian which fixed ceiling prices for all kinds of goods and services included skins and leather prepared from goats, sheep, lambs, hyenas, deer, wild sheep, wolves, martens, beaver, bears, jackals, seals, leopards and lions. Under the edict, cowhide was even classified according to groups and qualities. A complete tannery in the famous ash-preserved ruins of Pompeii was unearthed in 1873.